Department Store Bikes

74 of the 129 free bikes that I’ve collected to this point would be considered “department store bikes.” These are bicycles made by Huffy, Murray, Free Spirit, Columbia, Royce Union, Magna, Pacific, Roadmaster and Next among others. Unfortunately it also includes some bikes now sold under the name Mongoose and Schwinn. These days, most are mountain bike style, though I occasionally find road bike relics of the past.

People that know bikes often call them “bike shaped objects.” This is an appropriate and accurate, if slightly snarky and somewhat elitist description. These bikes do have many shortcomings. Even though their initial cost might be low, they are rarely a true bargain.

The first bike that I had as an adult was a Royce Union Savoy “mountain” bike. Its biggest negative quality was excessive weight. I didn’t realize when I was riding it that the heaviness was contributing a lot to the fact that I was not having any fun riding. I brought it in for a tune up at what would become my favorite bike shop and they commented that it must weigh 50 pounds. I don’t think that they were just trying to sell me a new bike; they were honestly shocked at its heft.

Many of the department store bikes that I’ve worked on also are equipped with very poor quality components. The rims are often out of true. The hubs frequently do not spin freely. Brakes, especially the sidepulls that used to come on these kinds of bikes, bend and become useless. The derailers warp easily (thin, cheap metal) and that causes the indexed shifting to become finicky and unreliable. Almost always, if there is a one-piece crank (Ashtabula) it is loose.
These bicycles are often assembled in a questionable manner. I’ve seen bar ends installed inboard of the grips. I’ve seen stems put on backwards and handlebars rotated to uncomfortable angles. One of the worst examples of bike assembly I’ve seen was a step-through Roadmaster that I found in 2008. The cables had been routed in such a way that it was impossible to turn right! When I found the bike in the trash the paint was brand new and the tires still had their new-tire nubs. The front side-pull brakes were bent. I replaced the brakes, cut the cables and put on new ones routed correctly and gave the bike away.

Another big problem with department store bikes is that they are being designed for a certain look rather than efficient or effective function. This is clearly evident in “suspension.” There is no such thing as department store suspension! It doesn’t really work. Manufacturers are putting springs and such on frames to correspond with peoples’ mental image as to what a good bike should have. The customer assumes that a bike with suspension will be tough and rugged and offer a more comfortable ride. Witness anyone actually riding one of these contraptions and you will quickly come to a different conclusion as the rider bounces up and down on the thing while failing to make significant forward progress. The “suspension” also adds a lot of extra weight. It’s been my rule from the beginning that any “full-suspension” department store frame gets stripped and sent to the recycler. I used to do the same with suspension forks. Their weight and questionable effectiveness are big liabilities. I’ve since moderated my views. Sometimes I don’t have a fully-rigid fork on hand and I conclude that it’s best to have a “suspension” fork instead of a bike that’s not usable despite the significant weight penalty and questionable efficacy.

Sometimes the suspension or shocks aren’t even real. Sometimes it’s implied. My father gave me two Huffys that he and his wife bought years ago. He pointed out that they had suspension seatposts and stems. Well, the shock absorption provided by these components was purely imaginary. It consisted of nothing more than a piece of plastic placed over a regular seatpost and stem giving it the look of a “shock.”


Additionally, the tubing used on the bikes is often very thick. That adds to the weight problem. The thick tubes are probably imitating the thick aluminum tubes of many modern mountain bikes. Aluminum, of course, is lighter than steel and thicker tubes must be used to achieve a similar level of strength. Well, the tubing used on these department store bikes is often cheap steel and not aluminum. The tubes do not need to be so thick, but their size gives (to the untrained eye) the impression that this is just like a real mountain bike.

Huge, heavy knobby tires are often standard issue on these bikes as well. Even though there is usually a sticker on the frame that recommends against riding the bike off-road, aggressive knobbies in a larger than 2.1 width imply that the machine is ready to conquer gnarly terrain.

The negatives listed above are all compounded by the fact that department store bikes are sold without real store support by people who know nothing about bicycles. They won’t take the time to properly fit you on a bike and they can’t provide any maintenance service. Granted, some bike shops are annoyingly elitist and heavy with the upselling pressure. Even a shop like this will probably still be willing to adjust your derailers and give your bike a quick look over if you bought it from them. After all, they want your repeat business and their name is usually on a sticker down near the bottom bracket. The mechanics at my favorite bike shop have provided great service (often at no cost) on the bike I bought from them and I am far from a big-spending customer. When you buy a bike from Target, you are on your own the second you walk out the door with it. You’re often on your own for the selecting process, too. Of course, you can bring your department store bike to a real bike store for it to be fixed when it breaks. If the shop is a good one (like my favorite bike shop) they’ll do the work and charge a fair amount for it.

Despite these many negatives, I do have a soft spot in my heart for department store bikes. They’re pretty much all that was available to me as a kid and I sympathize with those that think they’re stuck with them. Especially when I work on an old Huffy, I think about my old bikes.

If you’re going to ride a department store bike, I would recommend only a fully rigid frame and fork in a size that fits. As I’ve said before, real suspension cannot be purchased for $100 bucks in a big-box store. A hardtail, even a heavy one, will be more efficient to ride.

A single speed drivetrain would also be an upgrade. Single speed conversions are popular now for many reasons but on a department store bike this upgrade makes a lot of sense. First of all, finicky parts of questionable quality (plastic shifters, derailers stamped out of thin metal or plastic) are removed. There’s also a weight savings by removing these components and a portion of the chain. If hilly terrain makes a single gear unattractive, friction shifters are a good idea. They are often available at a low cost and require significantly less adjustment than indexed shifting. If you can get away with one chainring and a cluster of gears in the back (1 X gearing) you can get some of the weight benefits of single speed with the ability to climb hills a little more easily.

Wheels are often the weakest link on these bikes, so an upgraded wheelset would make sense. If you can only do one wheel, make it the rear (it handles the most weight). Aluminum rims are a must. A 36 spoke count probably work best for most riders, too. Street tires (no knobbies) are a good idea.

Granted, these adaptations take time, money, effort and knowledge to undertake. It might not make sense to make such an investment when better quality bikes at a decent price can be found through Craig’s List and other outlets (my favorite bike store always has a few used bikes for sale at very decent prices).

On a few occasions, a department store bike has surprised me because it wasn’t so bad. Recently I found a Motiv and a Pacific that were relatively decent. The components seemed pretty good (canti brakes, friction shifting) and they each had three-piece cranks. These bikes probably date back to the mid 90s, before suspension became popular.

The heavy Royce Union Savoy mentioned earlier was not terrible, despite its weight. It was not that fun to ride, but a single speed conversion and sensible tires might have gone a long way to ameliorate that. I no longer own that bike; it was given to some friends that use it as their urban pub crawling beater bike.

There is a Huffy that I still knock around on occasionally. It’s a beach cruiser frame. When I found it, the rear wheel was tacoed beyond repair, the saddle was shredded and the chainguard was bent. I got a new rear wheel with coaster brake (aluminum rim, not expensive), removed the chainguard and installed a new chain. Since there are no cables, I like to frequently change the handlebars. It can go from cruiser to klunker and back again in a short amount of time. It’s not a bike that I take very seriously, but it is fun to take on short rides around the neighborhood.

Another department store bike that I found that was a surprise was a Pacific Beta. This bike had some features that I don’t usually see on a department store bike. It had front and rear suspension of course, but it also featured a 1 1/8” threadless headset, an 8 speed cassette and quick release hubs. Most unusual were the chainstays – they were elevated like a Nishiki Ariel. The frame was aluminum. I wish I had taken a picture of it before I stripped it of usable components and sent the frame off to the recycler.

Why do I bother with these bikes?

Initially, it was for wrenching practice. I’d rather wreck some old Magna than my good bike-store purchased bike. These Huffys, Murrays and Free Sprits taught me a lot about bicycle mechanics.

When I pick them up, I know that they will end up at the Salvation Army. I spend the time to adjust everything and put it into working order. I often switch the shifting to friction (the original shifters are often broken anyway). I have enough inexpensive metal derailers to replace any that are flimsy or broken and friction shifting allows me not worry about compatibility issues. I feel that the person that ends up with a bike that I gave to the Salvation Army often has one that’s in better shape than when it was new. I don’t put much money into them – just cables and the occasional shifter (Nashbar had them for less than a dollar). My major investment is time.

One of my favorite donations to the Salvation Army was a single speed (with BMX handlebars!) that consisted of a Free Spirit frame, a Huffy fork, a Magna rear wheel and a Next front wheel. That’s some kind of department store bike hat trick hack! (With a different wheelset, that was my winter bike last year).